Italy’s Best Kept Secret: The Magic of Ortisei
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I’ll just say it: Ortisei is now my favorite place on the planet.
We spent a week in Ortisei and I am totally in love with the place. I’m still trying to put into words what made it so special. Imagine waking up surrounded by jagged mountain peaks, strolling through cobblestone streets, windows lined with colorful flower boxes, and eating pasta that makes you question every meal you’ve ever had. That’s Ortisei.
But here’s the truth…. my photos won’t do this place justice. Nope! Not one! The light changes by the minute, the air feels impossibly fresh, and everywhere you look, it’s postcard-perfect.
So if you’re dreaming of a trip to the Italian Alps, otherwise known as the Dolomites, let me help you plan your visit. Ortisei is the little Alpine village that completely captured us.
The Town of Ortisei
Ortisei sits in the Val Gardena region of northern Italy, tucked deep in the Dolomites, which is a part of the Italian Alps. The town feels like something out of a storybook, with colorful alpine houses, carved wooden balconies, colorful flowers decorating all the houses, and locals who actually smile at you as you wander by.
It’s small enough to walk everywhere, but big enough to keep you busy for days. You’ll find delicious restaurants, cozy coffee shops, and shops featuring the region’s famous wood carvings. Evenings are quiet and peaceful, filled with the smell of woodsmoke drifting from nearby chimneys.
There is nothing better than grabbing a table at one of Ortisei’s many outdoor cafés, ordering a Hugo Spritz (a local favorite made with prosecco, elderflower, and mint), and just people-watching. There’s something so peaceful about sitting in the mountain air, watching locals and travelers wander by with that same awestruck look we had.
Where We Stayed: Apartment Lara
View from Apartment Lara’s balcony
We stayed at Apartment Lara, a cozy chalet-style apartment that instantly felt like home. The wooden beams, the view of the mountains from our balcony, and the warm welcome from our host made it hard to leave.
It’s right above the town, just a few minutes’ bus ride to shops, bakeries, and restaurants. Each morning, we’d watch the sunrise on the mountain peaks and wonder how we got lucky enough to find this place.
If you’re visiting Ortisei, I can’t recommend Apartment Lara enough. It’s the perfect mix of views, comfort, and charm.
Getting Here
Getting to Ortisei takes a little effort, but that’s part of what makes it so special.
The closest major airports are Innsbruck, Austria (about 2 hours away), and Verona, Italy (about 3 hours away). From there, you can rent a car or take a combination of trains and buses to Val Gardena. We rented a car and drove all the way from Trieste, Italy, because we started this trip with a Mediterranean cruise that disembarked there.
Parking in Ortisei is limited. Once you’re in town, you really don’t need a car. Everything is walkable, and most hotels and apartments include a guest pass for the local bus system.
If you’re staying at Apartment Lara, you can park once and forget about your car for the rest of your trip. Trust me, walking is half the fun here.
Resciesa Rifugio
The Dolomites: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Let’s talk about those mountains.
The Dolomites aren’t just beautiful. They’re a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for their unique geology and breathtaking scenery. The way the sunlight hits the rock faces makes them glow pink and orange at sunrise and sunset (a phenomenon the locals call enrosadira).
Everywhere you turn, there’s a new view with towering cliffs, rolling green hills, and tiny alpine huts tucked into the slopes. It’s no wonder this area is a favorite for photographers, hikers, and anyone who loves nature.
We’ve traveled a lot, but the Dolomites hit differently. There’s something about the way the peaks rise out of the valleys that just stops you in your tracks.
The Food Scene
I could honestly write an entire post just about the food in Ortisei.
The cuisine here blends Italian flavor with German comfort food. Think pasta, strudel, and rich mountain cheeses. We ate our way through town, stopping at small local restaurants and cozy mountain huts.
Goulash soup
One afternoon, while e-biking the Seceda Loop, we sat down to the most delicious bowl of pasta… creamy, homemade, and served with that jaw-dropping Dolomite view. And can we talk about the best bowl of German goulash soup I’ve ever tasted? Maybe the best bowl of soup, PERIOD! It was at the top of the mountain, at the Resciesa Rifugio. Whether it’s pizza from a family trattoria or espresso and pastries at a corner café, your belly and your taste buds will be very happy here.
Here are a few recommendations for you while in Ortisei
Turanda: Best pizza, delicious cocktails, tuna nacho bowl was fresh and delicious
Snetonstube: Authentic and delicious, this place should be at the top of your list! Everything we ordered was fantastic. We recommend making a reservation as they will fill up fast! I can vouch for the beef goulash (not to be confused with the soup above).
Somont Restaurant: Best schnitzel in town!
Hotel Stetteneck: Best spot to sit outside with a cocktail and people watch
Resciesa Rifugio: Here is where you will find the best goulash soup, and don't skip the Bolognese, it's pretty fantastic too!
Cascade Restaurant: I am sad to say this was the only place that wasn't great. The schnitzel came out so greasy that we couldn't eat it. It was literally pooling on top. I felt like it was targeted towards tourists. So we cannot recommend this place.
Trail on Alp Resciesa
The Best Time to Visit
If you’re planning your trip, here’s a quick guide:
Summer (June–September): Great for hiking, biking, and long sunny days.
Fall (October): Fewer crowds, cooler temps, amazing color.
Winter (December–March): Ski season! Ortisei turns into a snow-globe village.
Spring (April–May): Quiet, with snow still on the peaks and flowers starting to bloom.
Honestly, there’s no bad time to visit. It just depends on what kind of adventure you want.
Visiting in October
We visited in October, and honestly? It might be the perfect time.
The summer crowds are gone, the air is crisp, and the fall colors are unreal. You’ll find golden larches, quiet trails, and locals out enjoying the last mild days before ski season.
Some of the lifts close later in the month, so check schedules ahead of time, but we loved the peaceful atmosphere. It felt like we had the whole town and the mountains to ourselves.
Getting Around
One of the best parts about Ortisei is its walkability.
The main street through town is lined with shops, restaurants, and bakeries. Everything feels close, and you can easily reach the cable cars or the funicular in just a few minutes from your hotel.
If you’re exploring further, public transportation is reliable and easy to use. The buses run regularly through Val Gardena, connecting Ortisei with nearby towns like Santa Cristina and Selva.
Things to Do in Ortisei
Here’s what made our week unforgettable:
Take the Seceda Cable Car: The views from the top are unreal and perfect for hiking, e-biking, or just soaking it all in.
Ride the Rasciesa Funicular: It’s a quieter mountain area with trails, lookouts, and alpine huts for lunch.
Go Paragliding! Yep, we did it. Floating above Ortisei with the Dolomites all around you is pure magic.
Hike or E-Bike the Trails: There are endless routes for every fitness level.
Explore Town: Shop, people-watch, and grab gelato (yes, even in the mountains).
Historic Church Hike: St. James Church (Dlieja da Sacun) was built in 1181
Visit Local Events: We were there for Segra Sacun, Ortisei’s annual autumn market and biggest festival of the year.
Why Ortisei Stole My Heart ❤️
I’ve been lucky enough to see many beautiful places, but Ortisei feels different. Maybe it’s the mix of mountain air and espresso, or the way strangers turn into friends after one conversation. Maybe it’s that every direction you look, you see beauty that feels untouched.
Whatever it is, I know this: we’ll be back. And next time we will Linger Longer!
If you’re planning a trip to Italy and want something beyond the typical touristy Rome, Venice, Florence route, make your way north to Ortisei. Spend time in the Dolomites, breathe the mountain air, and let this magical little town work its spell on you.
Trust me, you’ll leave a piece of your heart here, too. 💛
Meet Stacy! Stacy and her husband, Phil, are a wanderlust couple who have been roaming the great USA for an epic 7 years! They ditched the daily grind to embark on thrilling adventures and inspire fellow dreamers to chase their travel dreams. Curious about how they do it? Check out their awesome YouTube channel, Today is Someday, where they're spilling all the secrets to living a life on the move. Get ready to pack your bags and join them on this incredible journey.